November 24, 2007

Traffic's Down.

This sounds like a good time to bleg. After all, with no one actually reading the thing, imagine what's happening to my morale. But remember: there's nothing wrong with me that some money and premium gin won't fix.

(Darrell, you're soooo off the hook, here: I'm directing this toward the gin/cash deadbeats out there, and they know who they are. I'm still doing fine on Damrak, but I'm low on No. 209 [amazing stuff from SF] and could use some more Citadelle. I was about to take the Cascade Mountain plunge, but got Junipero at the last minute, instead. I wouldn't mind some more Hendrick's, of course. I've lost my passion for Dry, which is a step above normal Beefeaters, but can't compete at the Citadelle/Junipero/209 level. These gins take the clear beauty of London dry gins and add just a bit more juniper, plus a little bit of 1-2 compatible botanicals [usually involving citrus peel]. The way to make a martini with these guys is to get some really clean, fresh ice, pour the gin atop, and say the word "vermouth" out loud. Nothing else is necessary; even adding an olive would be a crime with these gins.

I'm thinking of doing a three-way "shootout" between Junipero, No. 209, and Citadelle.)

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June 20, 2007

So What Do You Call It When You See Wet, by Beefeater, Priced Lower Than Beefeater Itself?

Divine intervention, of course. And a clear indication that the Lord will provide.

I'm glad we got away from those early Old Testament practices, in which I would have had to destroy a bottle of good gin on an altar in the hopes that the Lord would be pleased enough to send me more of the same. New Testament: I drink it, thank God, and ask for more, please.

A more efficient system, for sure: better all around.

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June 10, 2007

Gin Palace: Hendrick's Gin

Most gins fall roughly into two categories: the full-flavored Dutch styles, and the "clean" (some say bland) English gins exemplified by Beefeater and Tanqueray (though there are certainly some more refined gins of this type).

Hendrick's, made in Scotland, is part of what I call the "third way" in gin: it doesn't have the heaviness of Dutch gins, some of which are reminiscent of good tequilas (um, if tequila were made with juniper—well, never mind about that). But it has a good deal more flavor than most of the "London Drys," and it's sipping gin, for sure: to add vermouth to Hendrick's would be a crime.

Hendrick's is a recent invention, but its marketing people love to play off the fact that their still—by the Scottish seaside—was fashioned during the Victorian era; Nineteenth-Century images adorn all its labels and bottles. Even the airplane-sized Hendrick's comes in a teensy cardboard tube like the one its daddy is shipped in. (The 50-ML size sports a twist-off cap, rather than the cork on the full-sized bottle. From a marketing perspective, it's interesting that Sarticious appears to serve the same quirky-but-light market niche, and also sports a cork on its full-size vessel. Sarticious is more classically citrusy, but is also a balanced "third way" gin—not quite Dutch, and not quite English in its lineage.)

Most of these alterna-gins are citrusy, but Hendrick's contains—aside from the usual juniper/"secret sauce" botanical combo—cucumber extract and essence of rose. Despite being very flavorful, the final result is still extremely light, and the flavor combination is crazy and brilliant. In fact, Hendrick's works fine in a gin-and-tonic, as with most of these third-way concoctions, because the flavors don't clash with the quinine in the tonic. But I've only done it once, because the distinctive flavor gets buried in tonic water, and that's a crime.

By definition, third-way gins work in most cocktails—though not martinis, as a general rule—and yet I can't get myself to drink them that way. I pour them over ice, wait a moment, and then fish the ice out of the glass.

They are that good.

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September 11, 2006

A Gin Palace Quickie

This isn't for martini people so much as it is for gin-and-tonic types.

1) Start with Wet.

2) When you can't afford Wet any more, drink Tanqueray.

3) When you can't afford Tanqueray any more, drink Beefeater.

4) Stop there. If you can't afford Beefeater, you can't afford gin.

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April 04, 2006

Slippery When Wet: Beefeater's Premium Offering

First, get your minds out of the gutter. Thanks.

I've been putting off this review because I just can't think of enough good things to say about Wet by Beefeater. This is the stuff; it's similar to Bombay Blue Sapphire, but "ever so much more so." It's more flavorful than Bombay Blue (or Tanqueray Ten), but still in the smoother tradition of English gin, rather than the more robust Dutch style.

In other words, in my mind it's the ultimate balance between smoothness and bite, with the perfect amount of juniper flavoring.

Wet is here just in time to catch the gin craze, and it's positioned beautifully to do quite well: the bottle is gorgeous (and shows the clarity of the liquor better than a blue or green bottle would), and it gives you that juniper hit without knocking you over. Its slogans range from the semi-respectable "get wet, because anything else is just dry" to "if this won't get you wet, nothing will." (I didn't understand that last one, of course.)

I would drink this gin every day if I could. If I'm ever rich and famous, I might do exactly that.

Get your own though, okay?

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March 14, 2006

Dutch Courage: Damrak Gin

Bachelor #1 hails from Amsterdam: Damrak is made at one of the world's oldest distilleries, established in 1575.

This is a serious, grownup gin. As a matter of fact, it's so serious that I've concluded it shouldn't be paired with tonic water. Ever. It has an almost bitter quality to it that reminds me of tequila; this could be the perfect gin for a gimlet. It's rich and flavorful—but its bitterness combines with the quinine in the tonic, and the two together can be a bit much. (Yes: I tried. I had to.) Something like a gimlet that has a bit of lime and a slight sweetness would work very well.

And if you're looking for a "sipping gin," this is truly your ticket. It contains a cornucopia of botanicals that buttress the juniper taste and may take me years to fully figure out. Which is lovely: I live for this kind of challenge.

Let's see what others say:

Jim Clarke at Star Chefs concurs, explaining that the Dutch tend to drink their gin chilled and neat, but the orangey notes in Damrak work well for fruity cocktails:

I particularly liked it in Gimlets and Cosmopolitans; as a martini gin it definitely prefers a twist to olives. It was heavier than London Gin with tonic, and mixed somewhat less successfully in some Old School cocktails. For example, I liked a Damrak Negroni but not a Pink Gin.

Yes. It does pair well with citrus, and the idea of using it for a dirty martini makes me shudder. Think sweet, not savory. And put that Angustura away. Thanks.

I stumbled across a Brit review of the KLM airline, which was too amusing not to quote, when it proclaims that the Dutch airline serves "horrible Dutch gin" (not that British tastes are supreme in such matters, of course):

The drinks policy on KLM is firmly adapted to the Dutch tastes - on the rare occasions when you can get on a plane that isn't dry. KLM carry Damrak Gin, which is the Dutch version. Admittedly the Dutch invented Gin in the 15th century, however Bombay Sapphire or Tanqueray - or even Gordon's for that matter - is an improvement. Alas, not for KLM, and the airline continues to serve Damrak.

Arrogant Limeys. They think the world revolves around them, you know.

Get your own bottle.

This is the first in my "Gin Palace" series, for which I'll be reviewing . . . gin. I'm actively fielding requests for other brands that readers would like previews of. (I'll also be looking at whiskeys on occasion, and a few red wines—because I'm super and splendid, and a bit of a lush.)

Darrell, I'm still looking for Cascade Mountain Gin. I'll check one more place, and then buy it online if need be.

Oh, and—everyone should send me money to finance this important public works project. Thanks.

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